Showing posts with label Solo Tramping. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Solo Tramping. Show all posts

Saturday, 24 October 2015

Arthurs Pass Walking Track: 24 October 2015

From Arthur's Pass township to Arthur's Pass...


Woo-hoo, I have finished study for 2015 so time to do some.....tramping!

I went for a tramp on the first day of the Labour Weekend break, just a day trip as we had plans to watch theWorld Cup  All Blacks vs South Africa rugbygame on Sunday morning.

My original plan was for a trip up to Carrol Hut near Otira, but when I arrived at the car park at the base of the track I was meet with the still smouldering wreck of a car that had been set on fire. After reporting it to the Police, I decided that maybe this was not such an awesome place to park my car for 5-6 hours.


Punchbowl Falls from the Arthur's Pass Walking Track car park

Instead I went back to Arthur's Pass and walked the new track from the Devils Punchbowl Falls car park to the pass. I've been wanting to do it for a while and this was the perfect opportunity.

Arthurs Pass Walking Track

The Arthur's Pass Walking Track follows the path taken by Arthur Dobson an early surveyor and the first European to cross the Pass between the Bealey and Otira rivers back in the 1880's.


Car park at the start of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track
Arthurs Pass Walking Track

There are a series of information panels near the car park laying out the various tracks at this end of the valley. This is the starting point for tracks to Punchbowl Falls, Arthur's Pass, Avalanche Peak, Cons Track and Mt Aicken.

Arthurs Pass Walking Track: information board at car park
 As you can see nice clear details and the required warning information for tourists, it is a busy spot. Thousands if not tens of thousands of people must walk up to Punchbowl Falls each year while travelling through Arthur's Pass.

Arthurs Pass Walking Track: details of the board
The start of the track is very clear, nice signage throughout its length.

Track junction for Punchbowl Falls and Arthurs Pass Walking Track
  The track quality is excellent, Great Walk standard really, and it stays at this level all the way to the pass. It certainly makes the track a lot easier to walk, years ago the previous rough basic track took about 2.5 hours to the pass, it is now an hour and a half. 

Walkin' Great Walk styles....on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track
 There are plenty of stairs and board walks along the trail here is a shot of the first of many for the day....


Arthurs Pass Walking Track: First of MANY steps!
 The bush to each side of the track is very dense, Arthur's Pass gets a lot of rain, over 2 meters most years and it actually holds the NZ record for the highest amount of rain in a 24 hour period (it was 2.4 meters, that's 39 inches or 7.8 feet) back in the 1960's. 

Dense bush to side of Arthur's Pass Walking Track
 There are a series of well constructed bridges along the track, they remind me a lot of the ones I've encountered on the Wharfedale and St James tracks. Standard DOC bridge design? Bridge, pedestrians, Mark I.....

Arthur's Pass Walking Track: example of the bridges en route

Jon on one of the bridges, Arthurs Pass Walking Track
 Periodically the far southern side of the valley becomes visible, nice views of Mt Avalanche, Mt Bealey and Mt Rolleston as you climb towards the pass. 

Mt Rolleston and Mt Bealey from Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Waterfall on the south side of the Bealey Valley
 The photo below shows the flank of Mt Avalanche as well as the distant and tiny looking buildings of Arthurs Pass township far below. This is a view from a scenic lookout about 30 minutes up the trail, it has a seat and picnic table. 

Flanks of Mt Avalanche from Arthur's Pass Walking Track
 You pass many small side streams on this track, all of them are bridged making this is an all weather track.

Arthur's Pass Walking Track: nice looking side stream
 I passed a number of  Dracophyllum traversii on the way, these are sometimes called "Dr Seuss" trees as they look exactly like the ones in The Lorax. We really have some weird and wonderful plants in New Zealand. 



Dracophyllum traversii tree near Arthur's Pass
 The track follows the route of a high tension power line for most of the way up the valley. The last time I walked this track back in the early 90's it was a rocky and wet experience as no formal track existed. The track was the cut back route of the power line. You still pass under the pylons every now and then on the new track. 

Track passing under the power pylons
 At one point you need to descend and then ascend a series of steps to get around a small gorge, the track has been well routed using a couple of handy gully's either side of the stream crossing. 

Arthurs Pass Walking Track : a stairway to heaven.....?

"Goblin" forest on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

View north west towards Mt Rolleston, Bealey Valley
 Eventually you reach Jacks Hut, former home of a well known road man of the early 1900's. Up till the 1980's it was a private bach or holiday home. It must have been some experience living here full time over the winter as the road sometimes gets up to 3 meters of snow in a big storm. Cool!

Historic Jacks Hut, SH 73 near Arthurs Pass
 Near Jacks Hut the track crosses State Highway SH73, to the south side of the valley and continues up to the Pass. Take care crossing the road as it is very busy and has blind corners in both directions.

Arthurs Pass Walking Track: there be the track......!


Arthurs Pass Walking Track, approaching the tarns on the pass

Mt Rolleston and Bealey Valley from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track
 You eventually breakout of the bush after 15minutes past Jacks Hut, the rest of the track is on board walk over a series of classic alpine bog's. There are stunning views in all directions. 

Start of the alpine bog-lands looking down valley, Arthur's Pass

Arthurs Pass Walking Track : alpine bog-lands looking up valley

Arthurs Pass - Highway 73  looking east or down valley
 There are a series of excellent interpretive panels along the track explaining the flora and fauna, history and topography of the surrounding area. 

Interpretive panel- Alpine plants near Arthurs Pass Tarns

No name falls near Temple Basin ski field from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track
 During the last ice age this valley was home to a massive glacier that was 200 meters higher than the existing pass. It stretched all the way to the Canterbury Plains and as far west as Lake Kaniere. That is nearly 100 km's!!!

The whole of Arthur's Pass National Park has been shaped by ice, wind and water. 

Glacial moraine field near Arthurs Pass
 As you can see I have my fleece on, even with the sun it was cold due to the wind from the Otira Valley. I could see steam from my breath as I was walking, too windy for a hat so I got a bit wind burnt on the face. 


Jon standing on Arthur's Pass
Below is a selection of photos taken as I walked around the short nature walk at the Pass. If you are ever heading for the West Coast stop and have a look, it is fascinating and very beautiful in a stark, rugged kind of way.

Series of tarns on Arthurs Pass

Looking East towards Otira Valley
Below is a classic kiwi tramping track leading off from the nature walk, this heads to the Otira Valley. This is more like the mess of rock, mud and roots we have come to expect and love on a DOC track.

A more basic DOC track heading to Otira Valley

One of the small tarns on Arthurs Pass

The Arthur Dobson Memorial marks the crest of Arthur's Pass. On the east side is Canterbury, on the west side it is the West Coast. You have just crossed the Southern Alps!

Arthur Dobson Memorial from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Arthurs Pass: one of the interpretive panels- glacial action

View west towards the West Coast from Arthur's Pass tarns

One of the many bridges on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

View towards Mt Bealey from alpine bog lands
After 20  minutes walking around the nature walk at the tarns I headed back down towards the village.

Below is a view of Jacks Hut from the opposite (southern) side of SH73. There are tracks from this point to the "Chasm" (a point where the Bealey River goes underground) and the Bealey Valley Track both of which are worth a look.


Jacks Hut from far side of SH73, Arthur's Pass


Arthurs Pass Walking Track : one of the picturesque side streams
I stopped about half way back to the village and sat on a log for a break for 5 minutes listening to the forest, river gurgle and birdsong.

Stopped for a snack on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Arthurs Pass Walking Track : new stairs to climb and descend a gully

Young Dracophyllum traversii alpine tree
The scene below will be familiar to anyone who has visited Arthur's Pass, these are the Punchbowl Falls close to the village. They are 112 metres high and come from an ice field on the saddle between Mt Cassidy and Mt Aicken. 

I am told that DOC have up graded the track to the falls and they now a wonder of board walk and platforms, I will have to visit sometime to confirm this. 

Punchbowl Falls from near the Arthur's Pass Walking Track car park

Close-up of Punchbowl Falls from the car park

View up Bealey Valley towards Arthurs Pass

It was a good days tramping and while not the trip I had planned it still worked out very nicely. It was excellent weather for a walk, dry but not too hot. Even though this is a popular track I only saw four other people on the track. It was surprising but Spring has only just started so possibly there aren't many tourists around yet.

Access: The track starts at the car park for the Punchbowl Falls, this is at the western end of Arthur's Pass township, look for the sign on the Bealey River side of SH73.
Track times: 1.5-2 hours to Arthur's Pass, same return.
Miscellaneous: All weather track, all streams bridged. Take water as all side streams along this track are contaminated. Watch for traffic on SH73 as you cross at Jacks Hut.

Sunday, 11 January 2015

Lagoon Saddle, Arthurs Pass: 10 January 2015

Lagoon Saddle: day tripping in Arthur's Pass...

Over the weekend I went for my first day tramp for 2015, I followed the Lagoon Saddle Track up to the shelter and return. It was an excellent day, beautiful weather and a nice 6 hour walk. The larger Cass-Lagoon Saddle track is a fantastic 2-3 day trip, the section from Cora Lynn station to Hamilton Hut is also a section of the Te Araroa Trail (TAT).


Lagoon Saddle Tarn from flank of Mt Bruce

Part of the Cass-Lagoon Saddle Track

The traditional way to walk the Cass-Lagoon Saddle Track  is from the Cass end, this is a trip I intend to do once I work out the logistics of getting back to my car (there is a 15 km distance between the two ends of the track) at the end of the trip.


Cora Lynn-Lagoon Saddle Track

I saw some photos (thanks Janey) of a trip from the Lagoon Saddle end of the track and thought it looked like a great tramp for a summers day. I really like the contrast on this track of forest, tussock and open country.


There is an extensive car-park at the beginning of the track, just turn off the highway at Cora Lynn Station and follow the DOC signs. I recommend parking in the shade of the beech trees as my car was like a furnace by the time I got back to it 6 hours later.
Car-park at Lagoon Saddle Track
There is a good DOC information panel at the beginning of the track, take the track timing messages with a grain of salt, I usually find them to be wrong. In this case it was spot on 2.5-3 hours to the hut.


DOC info board, Lagoon Saddle Track
Here is the start of the climb on the track to Lagoon Saddle, the track is quite steep to start with but eventually evens out into a long sidle. It is all up hill though, so slow and steady is the name of the game on this track.

Start of the climb on the Lagoon Saddle Track
There is an avalanche warning sign near the start of the track, in Winter there is a significant risk of avalanches at the far end of the track. Don't freak out! this is just DOC being safety conscious, akin to the exit sign's you see in the 2 meter by 2 meter bivy's scattered around the country. There only one exit so it is not really required.
Warning sign near Bealey Hut
The track starts with typical open beech forest, the condition of the lower track was good: dry, wide and clear of fallen trees.

Open beech forest, Lagoon Saddle Track
As you climb the forest opens up considerably, this is mature beech forest, cool and shaded on this very hot day (it got up to 29 degrees).

Lagoon Saddle Track
You pass some small areas of goblin forest, thick moss underfoot and the possibility of a dwarf braining you with a club behind every tree!

Classic goblin forest, Lagoon Saddle Track
Generally the track is good, you do strike areas of roots and rough stone underneath. Walking shoes or boots are probably the best footwear for this type of track, I saw a lot of people wearing running shoes but I bet they had cold, sore, wet feet by the end of the day.

Track conditions, Lagoon Saddle Track
After about 40 minutes you enter a band of exotic pine plantation. The trees were planted by the NZFS back in the 70's as a erosion remedy, they are fully mature, and it is a thick dark forest you see now.

Entering the exotic plantation, Lagoon Saddle Track
Below is the first, not very good view from the track, the forest is so thick that there are no real views until you reach the tussock area after an hour and a half or so.

First view along the track
Here is the end of the exotic band and the start of more beech, the mountain variety in this case. You are about 20 minutes from breaking out into the tussock at this point, and half way to your destination.
Exotic-beech forest margin
There is a nice benched track through this section, it makes a welcome change to the mud you are about to encounter.....
Nicely benched track, Lagoon Saddle Track
Eventually you break out of the forest to fantastic views over the Upper Waimakariri Valley, below is a shot towards Klondyke Corner and the Bealey Valley. You are at about 600 meters at this point.

View towards Klondyke corner, Bealey Valley

Bealey Valley with Arthur's Pass Village in the distance
Here is view looking East towards the Mt White bridge area.

Waimakiriri valley from Lagoon Saddle Track

Waimakiriri from the Lagoon Saddle Track
The track for the next hour is a long sidle across slopes of tussock and grass, with the occasional copse of trees. The track was a bit muddy, water run off from Mt Bruce and the swampy nature of the ground do not make for dry conditions.

Tussock transition point on Mt Bruce
View towards the Bealey valley, with Mt Rolleston in the background.

View towards west from the Lagoon Saddle Track

Alpine daisies on the Lagoon Saddle Track
Looking south west we can see the ranges around Browning and Whitehorn Passes, this is the location of the awesome Three Passes tramp, as you can see you would need ice axe and crampons even in the Summer to complete the track.

View South West towards Browning Pass
Here is a moderate example of the muddy track, it is far worse at some points.

Muddy track conditions
You have great views of Bealey Spur to the West, I walked this track to Bealey Spur Hut in September last year.

Lagoon Saddle Track
Eventually you reach the highest point, and start down towards Lagoon Saddle Shelter about 300 meters downhill. The area in the foreground of the photo is Lagoon Saddle itself.

Lagoon Saddle from the flank of Mt Bruce
Here is a view looking towards Mt Bruce, this would be a good point for an ascent of the mountain, it is the apex of the track and there is a nice easy tussock slope to climb. I estimate it would take at least an hour from here to get to the top.

Mt Bruce from the Lagoon Saddle Track
There's a wilderness tramp staring you in the face, a quick look at the topo map shows easy terrain from here heading south-east, there are a series of tarns further along this range (possible future trip?).

Lagoon Saddle and tarns
You can see the tarns on Lagoon Saddle from the track as you descend down towards the hut, I couldn't see a track anywhere (or I would have gone down), but it looks like an easy bush bash. There are a series of tarns, one quite large and several smaller ones around it. Could be a nice spot to camp.

Main tarn on Lagoon Saddle
Lagoon Saddle Shelter is a small A frame building close to the tarns. It is not intended as an overnight spot but could certainly be used for that purpose, it has just enough space for 2 people. I noticed a small waterfall (2-3 meters) nearby as well, it is the outflow point for the tarns. It looked like it would be accessible by following the bush edge.

Natures shower anyone? Ill bet it is refreshing, if not glacial in nature.

Lagoon Saddle Shelter

Lagoon Saddle shelter
As you can see it is a bit Spartan inside, but would be perfectly comfortable for an overnight stay. There is a bench for one of the mattresses, the second would need to go on the floor, this is definitely a 2 person bivy.

Interior of Lagoon Saddle shelter: only one bunk!
Small amount of storage space, an axe, and the usual DOC safety warnings. Water for the hut would be from the small stream near the hut, or from another stream that runs from the tarns on the saddle. I would draw water from up hill of the toilet as it looks too close to the nearby stream in my opinion.

Interior of Lagoon Saddle shelter
I discovered later that there is also an old hut (Lagoon Saddle Hut) within a hundred meters of this location. It is in the forest fringe opposite the shelter, but I didn't see it on the day I was there. From its location on the topo map it would be to the SW of Lagoon Saddle shelter, 4 bunks, basic inside but usable.
Area surrounding Lagoon Saddle Shelter

Lagoon Saddle Hut from Tramping New Zealand website

Heading back to the Cora Lynn car park

I stopped at the shelter for a snack and to write in the hut book, then headed back up the track to find a lunch spot in the sun. It is much easier walking back towards the car-park, the lie of the land favours a clockwise direction of travel.

View of the tarn from near Lagoon Saddle shelter
Lunch of champions: sesame crackers, tuna, peanut M&M's and water!
Lunch time on the Lagoon Saddle Track

View back towards Lagoon Saddle
I stopped just short of the apex and parked myself on a convenient rock so I could eat my lunch out of the wind. The breeze from the distance mountains was a bit cool, there is still a bit of snow at higher elevations along the Alps
Jon on the Lagoon Saddle Track

View of Upper Bealey Spur

Waimakiriri river from the Lagoon Saddle Track
It was possible to see SE towards the upper Harper River, Hamilton Hut is about 6 hours walk up this valley. The official DOC time for the section from Hamilton Hut to the Cora Lynn entrance is 7-9 hours! I was talking to a French couple who were planning to walk all the way to Cass Hut, that is a 12-13 hour trip! Too far for me, but then I'm not a awesomely fit looking 20 year old
European  hiker.
View South East into upper Harper Valley
I wish this track had more of this: board walks over the muddy swampy spots.

Board walks on Lagoon Saddle Track
In the distance are the picturesque tarns on Bealey Spur, about 3 km's and 200 meters lower than the Lagoon Saddle track. I believe you can walk up one track and down the other by  using a long ridge sidle between the two Spurs.

Bealey Spur Tarns
I passed 17 people on the way back out to the car-park, I started walking at 8 am so probably was walking before most of them had risen from bed. Mostly day trippers, although there was one American couple from San Diego who were staying at Lagoon Saddle Hut for the night. It's interesting how much info you can share in a 5 minute conversation on the side of a track.

View down towards forest, Lagoon Saddle Track

Lower Bealey Spur
There is Cora Lynn station in the distance, it is obvious to see the difference that irrigation makes in these high dry areas. At least Cora Lynn is still a sheep station and not a polluting dairy farm.

Cora Lynn Station from Mt Bruce

Bealey Spur, Bealey Valley and Mt Rolleston
About 10 minutes from the end of the track is Bealey Hut, this is a basic 6 bunk hut, with a water tank and toilets. There is plenty of space around the hut for tents, but no internal fireplace. Inside it was blazing hot, sitting closed up in the sun.

Bealey Hut near Cora Lynn Station
Its pretty basic inside, but would provide shelter from bad weather if required. As with all DOC huts close to road ends it is prone to graffiti and damage as it would get visited by (excuse my language) complete arse's who don't realize how lucky we are to have these huts.

Interior of Bealey hut: some of the bunks
The hut is often used by Te Araroa trail walkers as it is the first on this section of the trail, there is also good accommodation at the wilderness lodge close to this hut. A quick read of the hut book had 20+ people visiting the hut in the previous 2 week period.

This is the 67th DOC hut I have visited, only around 840 more to go!

Interior of Bealey Hut: small cooking bench

Flat area around Bealey Hut
Eventually you make it back to the car-park, plenty of space for cars here and relatively secure as it is clearly visible to the nearby Cora Lynn homestead. I would have no problems parking my car here for several days while exploring the local area.

Lagoon Saddle carpark, Cora Lynn end

DOC information board Lagoon Saddle Track
The car-park is at the end of this short gravel track, you can see the changes in the vegetation on the spur from beech, to pine and beech again.

Mt Bruce, view of the forest, track from Cora Lynn
On the way back to Christchurch I spotted these wild flowers growing in the dry lake bed of Lake Lyndon. It was a spectacular sight with the mixture of purple and yellow colors.

Wild flowers growing in bed of dry Lake Lyndon

Access: Turn off SH 73 (Arthur's Pass Highway) at Cora Lynn Station, drive along long gravel driveway to fence with Lagoon Saddle Track sign
Track Times: 2.5-3 hours to Lagoon Saddle Shelter, same return
Hut Details: Bealey Hut: basic, 6 bunks, water tank, toilets: Lagoon Saddle Shelter: basic, 2 bunks, water from stream, toilet: Lagoon Saddle Hut: basic, 4 bunks, toilet, water from stream
Miscellaneous: Avalanche risk in winter/spring, exposed to weather in all seasons, part of Te Araroa Trail