Showing posts with label Magdalen hut. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Magdalen hut. Show all posts

Sunday, 14 May 2017

Magdalen Hut: 5-7 May 2017

Return to Magdalen Hut, 2017 style

I was once again looking for a tramping location, my first thought was back to Nelson Lakes NP, but a bit of an iffy weather forecast did not bode well. A peruse of this blog showed that I haven't been into Magdalen Hut since 2013. I love this hut, is is relatively new (2008) and is a very nice 6 bunk hut about 3.5 hours along the Boyle River section of the St James Walkway.

So that was the destination I chose to visit, this marks my fourth visit to this hut.

I did something unusual for me, I stayed in the hut for 2 consecutive nights. I've never deliberately done this before, I have been hut bound by bad weather a couple of times though.  


Sunrise from just west of Waipara,SH1

Day One: Boyle Outdoor Education Centre to Magdalen Hut

Because it is such a short trip into the hut I left a bit later than normal: 7 am as opposed to 4 am. It was a beautiful sunny day, the same weather I experienced for the next couple of days.

On SH 7 just past Hanmer Springs
Map of the Boyle end of the St James Walkway


I left my car parked at the Boyle Outdoor Education Centre (BOEC), they offer a variety of services to trampers including secure parking, accommodation and a track shuttle service (in your own vehicle). Parking here is a much safer options than at the track end.  There has been a 200% increase in car break-ins up here since the Kaikoura earthquakes re routed all the Christchurch - Picton traffic over Lewis Pass. 

The Silver Surfer parked at Boyle Education Centre

Boyle Outdoor Education Centre buildings
First part of the trip is up the St Andrews access road, about 2 km's up the road there is an obvious junction down to the St James Walkway. I always use this route as the official start of the St James has a lot of irritating up and down.


The St Andrews access road
Be aware that DOC land ends at this track junction- do not go further up this access road as it is private property.

Entrance to St James Walkway from the St Andrews access road

Frosty grass, St James Walkway
The St James Walkway is easy walking for the most part, it is occasionally muddy but generally it is easy and safe in all weathers. From the access road it is about a kilometre to the first swing bridge over the Boyle River.

Moving through Manuka/Kanuka regrowth, St James Walkway


Descending down to the first Boyle River swing-bridge

First swing bridge over the Boyle, St James Walkway
The Boyle is a well known trout fishery, in season you will often see anglers trolling the pools of the river, especially around the swing bridge. Once over the bridge you are on the true right of the river for the next two hours.

Boyle River gorge from the St James Walkway


NZ Wren on the St James Walkway

Jon en-route to Magdalen Hut

This could use some board walk...St James Walkway
I see that there is now a horse trek concession up this part of the St James, through to Anne Hut and then out via St James Recreation land. There is a bit of horse manure to avoid but so far it hasn't impacted the track to any great extent.


Horse Trek route sign, St James Walkway
The walkway is a succession of forest, grass plain and short rocky sidle sections always just within the forest line. There are a number of side streams to cross on the way, but at this time of the year they were either totally dry or almost dry.


Boyle River from the St James Walkway

View east towards St Andrews Station

View west towards SH 7 through Lewis Pass

Crossing unnamed stream, St James Walkway

Crossing a patch of forest, St James Walkway

St Andrews Station Flats, St James Walkway

View East towards St Andrews Station, St James Walkway
Eventually you reach the terraced ridge at the end of the valley, the walkway goes up and over this ridge but it is very gentle travel as the track is nicely benched along here. The top of the ridge is a different story. It is muddy - this is a section that is crying out for a set of board walks to protect the swamp that occupies the terrace.


Starting the climb over the last ridge

High point for this tramp about 860 metres a.s.l, St James Walkway
Below is an example of the mud you encounter- its not to bad at this time of year but in the Spring it can be knee deep in some places. A set of board walks would stop the track getting any bigger, in places it is 20 meters wide as people try to avoid the mud. The whole top of this terrace is a very poorly draining swamp.


The ubiquitous mud- St James Walkway

Muritana Stream, Magdalen Hut is down there...


Heading back down to the Boyle, St James Walkway

Approaching the Mid Boyle Swing bridge
You reach the second Boyle River swing bridge after 3-3.5 hours, from here it is right turn, then down river to Magdalen Hut about 20-30 minutes away.


Mid Boyle Swing bridge from true right
Jon at the Mid Boyle Swing bridge

Mid Boyle Swing bridge

Start of the Magdalen Hut Track

On the Magdalen Hut Track
Below is the ford the horse trekking company uses, they don't go over the ridge, rather they follow the course of the Boyle River. Once past this point they follow the old benched track leading to Boyle Flat Hut and Anne Saddle further up the valley. 

The horse ford near the second Boyle bridge

Snow on the distant Libretto Range...

Quite a lot of snow...

Looking towards the Poplar Range on the Magdalen Track
They obvious get some big floods up this valley as I was walking through flood debris a good 30+ metres away from the river itself on this section. 

Flood debris next to the Boyle River

After 20 minutes you arrive at Muritana Stream which is the last obstacle before reaching the hut. The stream is generally not a problem, although I have heard of people getting stuck on the wrong side here it when it really pours with rain. On this trip it was only 4-5 cm's deep.


Magdalen Hut and Muritana Stream

Libretto Range from Magdalen Hut

Snow on Mt Muritana from the Magdalen hut veranda

Magdalen Hut is very nice: it is a 6 bunker and has a firebox, brand new water tank and a full woodshed (at this time). The hut was built in 2008 to replace a much older NZFS6 from the late 1950's, it gets a lot of use through the year and is an excellent winter trip destination.


Magdalen Hut, Lake Sumner Forest Park

The wood shed was full this visit but if it is empty check out the scrub surrounding the hut- there is a LOT of dry wood there (I had a look).

Awesome sight- full woodshed at Magdalen Hut

Thats a nice touch...thanks Olivier!

Interior of Magdalen Hut- the table and benches

Jon inside Magdalen Hut
The inside of the hut is very tidy, I was lucky the previous visitor a TA trekker called Olivier had cut up a nice pile of firewood when he was stuck here in the rain for a couple of days. He was heading NOBO for St Arnaud according to the DOC hut book, I hope he got there because there was a snow dump up on Waiau Pass that week. 

Thanks buddy...you're a legend!

Someone left me some firewood...thanks again Olivier!

Well done drawing of a Weta in the hut book


Interior Magdalen Hut- fire-box and bench

Interior Magdalen Hut- bunk area

Inside Magdalen Hut: Map of the area

Inside Magdalen Hut: Fire notice
I basically spent the rest of the day cutting firewood and cleaning the hut, inter spaced with eating and copious cups of tea. Lots of good reading material in the hut ranging from some women's magazines right up to three volumes of an encyclopaedia.   

Surprisingly I had the hut to myself for two days- it was a surprise because the weather was glorious the whole time. In fact I didn't see another person during the whole course of this tramp.


Mt Maritana (1641)  from near Magdalen Hut


Dinner One: BCC Roast Lamb and Vegetables


Moody lighting in the hut at dusk


The other end of the hut at Dusk

I'm glad there was wood because it was perishingly cold once the sun went behind the mountains, there is a bit of snow up on the high points and the Katabolic wind brings that cold down at night-time.

Day Two: Zero Day

Day two was a pit day: I slept in till about 9 am, got up lit the fire because of the frost outside and basically spent the rest of the day reading, cutting wood, cleaning the hut and relaxing. It was so cold the hut water tank froze overnight, but having experienced this before I made sure I was fully stocked with water before the frost settled on the Friday night.

Sign on the outside of Magdalen Hut


Setting the fire in Magdalen Hut on the Saturday morning


Lunch on Saturday; onion soup with added ramen noodles!


I cut me some wood....!


I cut me some more wood....!

My main occupations- reading the hut literature...


...drinking tea and eating pate....my kind of tramping trip!
About 3 pm I went for a wander to the Boyle River and followed it till it turned down the valley towards State Highway 7. It was already starting to get cold as the sun falls behind the mountains at about 2 pm hereabouts. 

Jon with the Poplar Range in the background


Mons Sex Millia (1835) and DOC Mark I removable dunny!

South: Boyle River and the Poplar Range

If the Boyle is low enough you can just cross here and meet up with the St James Walkway at the point where it starts to climb that last ridge. However, be aware that there is a bit of swampy ground to traverse to get there. 

North: Mt Martha (1409) and the Boyle River

The open area surrounding Magdalen Hut

Rear of Magdalen Hut, fire pit
I took Back-country freeze dried meals on this trip, two of my personal favourites Roast Lamb with Vegetables and Moroccan Lamb (Tagine). I was going for the light and fast approach...

Dinner two: BCC Moroccan Lamb with onions & cashews


Mood lighting on the Saturday night, I just need some red wine
I went to sleep early on Saturday around 8 pm, so I got nearly 11 hours sleep that night...

Day three: Heading for the BOEC and home...

Sunday opened bright and sunny with just a little mist on the high ranges. It was frosty which was fine but meant I need to wear my merino's for only the second time in two years. I kept them on until I reached the lower Boyle bridge as it was cold walking in the lee of the mountains. 



A frosty Magdalen Hut, Sunday morning

DOC track sign near the hut

My path lays that way....

Au revoir Magdalen....see you again soon.
I was off and walking by 8 am, this is late for me.  Part of winter tramping is the later dawn and earlier dusk you have to contend with, it is a bit difficult to tramp in the dark! The sun didn't fully rise over the ranges until I was walking down the access road to the BOEC around 11:30 am. 

Heading up the Boyle to the second bridge

On the Magdalen Hut Track

Approaching the Mid Boyle swing bridge


Nice track on the true right of the Boyle
Below you can see how the side streams are all dry, there has been very little rainfall the last couple of months so things are a bit dry up in North Canterbury.

One of the dry side streams on the St James Walkway



View East to head of the Boyle River Valley


Jon on his way home, Mon Sex Millia in the background
You can see how frosty it was, this grass was frozen so hard you could break sections off it.  I imagine it gets no real sun for most of the winter months. 

Early morning frost on the St James Walkway

Still frozen at 10 am in the morning...

St James Walkway skirting the bush line


St Andrews Station access road

I saw a lot of deer sign up this valley, both prints and scat. The roar has just finished and with the colder weather the Red Deer will be coming down to the valley floor to take advantage of the grass still on offer. 

Deer hoof print on the track


Climbing the last rise before the lower swing bridge


Back at the first Boyle River bridge
When you get to the junction shown below you have two options: one is to go up on the access road and follow it down to the BOEC, this takes 20 minutes. The other is to keep following the track out to the end of the St James Walkway, this takes 30 minutes.

 I would recommend following the track if this is your first experience of the walkway, otherwise get on that access road and boogie on down...


Left for the access road, right for the Walkway

St Andrews access road heading to the BOEC

Sylvia Stream and Tops from the access road

Official end of the St James Walkway

Entrance to the BOEC...

...Boyle Outdoor Education Centre

It was a nice trip and even though it was to a hut I have visited before the pleasure was in having that hut to myself for three days and the joy of being outdoors. 

My main question: Where were all the people? The weather was fantastic for all three days. I felt sure that I would end up with 16 people in the hut with me at night but I saw not a soul for three days...weird!

BTW, I stopped off in Culverden (as is my norm) for a big arsed plate of bacon and eggs at the tearooms. The Culverden Tearooms are near the public toilet block on the main strip.

Main drag Culverden: the tearooms on the left of photo!

If you are ever passing through get in there: for $16 I got two big sausages, about six strips of bacon, two hash browns, a tomato, mushrooms and toast. The bacon is superb; smoky, crispy...really beautiful.  It must be some local supplier because it is absolutely NOT commercially produced.